Freude

As throngs headed toward St. Peter's Square this sunlit Easter, we walked in the opposite direction, to a concert hall at the other end of the street to hear Beethoven's 9th Symphony. The bass opened the choral section with one majestic word, "Freude," which means joy in German. I was relieved the symphony would not be sung in Italian, as that would diminish its power. It is one of my favorite works, sublime I think, and altogether appropriate for Easter. Lorin Maazel conducted in a modest, clear, workmanlike style, impressive considering the disparate groups under his direction. This concert followed a sunrise service high on a Borghese Park overlook. For once Rome was not busy or noisy. We even heard church bells ringing. Yesterday we saw the Catacombs of St. Domitilla. Contrary to popular belief, Christians didn't hide in catacombs to avoid Roman persecution but rather used them as burial places. These particular catacombs contained a spacious 3rd-century church, almost completely submerged, and one of the first depictions of Jesus.